Edinburgh is the capital city of Scotland, the second largest city in Scotland, and the eight most populous in the United Kingdom. Edinburgh is the seat of the Scottish Parliament. The city is one of the historical major centers of Scotland helping to earn it the nickname Athens of the North. The Old Town and New Town districts of Edinburgh were listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1995 in recognition of the unique character of the Medieval Old Town.

The city hosts the annual Edinburgh Festival, a group of official and independent festivals held annually over about four weeks beginning in early August. The number of visitors attracted to Edinburgh for the Festival is roughly equal to the settled population of the city.

The first evidence of the existence of the town as a separate entity from the fort lies in an early 12th century royal charter, generally thought to date from 1124, by King David I granting land to the Church of the Holy Rood of Edinburgh. This suggests that the town came into official existence between 1018 and 1124.

By the 12th century, Edinburgh was well established, founded upon the famous castle rock, the volcanic crag and tall geological feature shaped by 2 million years of glacial activity. Flourishing alongside it to the east, another community developed around the Abby of Holyrood, known as Canongate. In the 12th century these both became Royal Burghs and through the late medieval period Edinburgh grew quickly.

In 1603, King James VI of Scotland succeeded to the English and Irish thrones, uniting the Kingdoms in a personal union known as the Union of the Crowns. Scotland remained an independent state with the Parliament of Scotland in Edinburgh. King James VI progressed to London, establishing there his court from which he reigned over his kingdoms. Despite promising to return every three years, he returned to Edinburgh only once, in 1617.

In 17th century Edinburgh a defensive wall, built in the 16th century largely as protection against English invasion following James IV's defeat at the Battle of Flodden and hence named the Flodden Wall, still defined the boundaries of the city. Due to the restricted land area available for development, houses increased in height instead. Buildings of 11 stories were common and there are records of buildings as high as 14 or even 15 stories, an early version of the modern-day skyscraper. Many of the stone-built structures can still be seen today in the Old Town.

In Edinburgh the Hanoverian Monarch attempted to gain favor by supporting new developments to the north of the castle, naming streets in honor of the King and his family; George Street, Frederick Street, Hanover Street and Princess Street, named in honors of George III's two sons.

As the name suggests, the Royal Mile is approximately one Scots mile long, and runs between two foci of history in Scotland, from Edinburgh Castle at the top of the Castle Rock down to Holyrood Abby. The Royal Mile is Edinburgh Old Town's busiest tourist street, rivaled only by Princess Street in the New Town.

Retreating ice sheets, many millennia ago, deposited their glacial debris behind the hard volcanic plug that is Castle Rock (which Edinburgh Castle sits upon), resulting in a distinctive crag and tail feature. Extending in an eastwards direction, the Royal Mile sits upon the spine of this crag and tail trailing gently down from the Castle to the Palace of Holyroddenhouse. Steep closes (or alleyways) run between the many tall lands (or tenement buildings) off the main thoroughfare.

There are narrow alleys branching off the Royal Mile, much as ribs from a spine, called close's .

A very interesting tower. You will see it pictured and in background several times. This tower has a locked door in front of a stair well leading to the level above the ensigns. This original structure was used to make Royal announcements. Today, it is still used for those occasions. For example when the marriage of Prince William was formally announced. the announcements are always made by a officials in historical costume.

Because it took three days for work of a Royal Announcement to reach Edinburgh, to this day, when a Royal Statement is made in London, the announcement from Merker Tower is made three days later.

Behind the tower stands an old Parliament building. It is currently used as law offices. It contains the famous "strolling room". (Pictures were not allowed inside.) This room is perhaps 100 feet long and 30 wide. Lawyers and heir clients, partners or associates, leave their office and walk side-by-side up and down the room as they very quietly, and privately, talk. Visitors are not allowed to speak a word in this room. While we were there, two pair of lawyers and their accompanists, were pacing he room. Until lately, female lawyers were not allowed to walk the room as their high heels made too much noise.

In the middle of what is now the closely guarded reserved parking area next to the old Parliament Building is a statue of a past Mayor of Edinburgh - placed there by that Mayor. For some reason, he saw himself as a Caesar like figure. Ego much?

On the street, in front of the old Parliament building is St. Giles Church. The area that is now a parking lot was the Church's cemetery. The graves were removed and placed within the church so the parking area could be paved - EXCEPT for one grave - more on this later!

The church has these very small stained glass windows which caught my attention. Small works of art.

The Parliament Building was burned down. The central and left-hand wing, now used as law offices, was rebuilt exactly like the original building. Money ran out and the right-hand wing is only an exterior. The inside is empty. Over that wing's door is one of the original Parliament pieces, still showing burn marks.

On the side walk are preserved markings , carved in granite indicating where some buildings, now gone, were in relation to the street. Gone are the gallows and the jail.

By the West Door of St Giles' is the Heart of Midlothian, a heart-shaped pattern built into the settled road, marking the site of the Old Tollbooth, formerly the center of administration, taxation and justice in the Burgh. The prison had been described by Sir Walter Scott as the "Heart of Midlothian", and soon after demolition, it occurred to the city fathers to place a heart on the site. Locals still spit on the Heart (aiming very specifically for the center). The legend has been "cleaned up" by tourist guides who claim the spitting is for good luck, but it is really the same as it was, a good old-fashioned disrespect for authority.

The jail was much hated. When the past citizens of Edinburgh waked by the original jail, they would spit on the first step of the jail to show their contempt for England, corrupt officials and false imprisonments.

The jail may be gone, but the tradition continues. As citizens of Edinburgh walk by they spit on a heart shaped set of pavers which are the site of the original steps of the jail.

Because everyone wanted to live within the walls of what is now Old Town, the homes on the close's had to build up - there was no more land to build upon. As you see, this one is 6 stories high. Some were known to be 14 stories.

The very rich and famous paid extortionate costs to build and live in courtyards at the end of shorter Close's. They had guards attempt to keep others out, and had very strict rules regarding waste placement and removal.

This courtyard was home to famous writers and intellectuals. At the lower corner one finds the Writer's Museum. Sir William Grey originally built and owned this building with his wife. Their coat of arms is displayed prominently. The building is a real treat to see when compared to the buildings along the Royal Mile or in the Close's

We did not visit in the building, as we were on a walking tour, but the museum's website says, "Visitors can see portraits, rare books and personal objects including Burns’ writing desk, the printing press on which Scott’s Waverley Novels were first produced, and Scott’s own dining table and rocking horse. We have Robert Louis Stevenson’s riding boots and the ring given to him by a Samoan chief, engraved with the name ‘Tusitala’, meaning ‘teller of tales’. There is also a plaster cast of Robert Burns' skull, one of only three ever made. Even if you’re not a bookworm, it’s well worth a visit."

If you look above the doorway of the Writers’ Museum you will see the warning words ‘Fear the Lord and depart from evil’? You can also see the initials of the first owner of the house, wealthy merchant Sir William Grey and his wife Geida Smith.

He was considered so brilliant, and so able to take either side of a debate and win, the tablet he holds is blank - symbolizing there was nothing for him to yet learn

Because he was so brilliant and his knowledge so deep, students, particularly law students, rub his toe on his statue for good luck prior to exams.

"The Burial Site of John Knox: Weird or Sad, You Choose

John Knox was a famous Edinburgh resident who in his duties as Scottish priest is considered the founder of the Presbyterian denomination. He served as minister in the glorious St. Giles Cathedral from 1560 to 1572. Apart from his contributions to the reformation, he is also widely known for his fierce oppositions to the policies of Mary Queen of Scots.

Knox died here in Edinburgh and was buried in the St. Giles graveyard. What’s that, you say? You couldn’t find the graveyard at St Giles? Well, that’s because it was paved over. It’s now a parking lot. Yes, the man who founded the Presbyterian church is buried under parking space number 23. If you visit the church, from the pedestrian side walk around to the back of the church and head for spot number 23. The specific spot of Mr. Knox’s grave is denoted by a small, unremarkable and wordless brass plate buried in between the pavement."

There is too much history here to ever see and learn on any one visit - or in our case - two visits. History is virtually everywhere. You have to look in every nook and cranny, and then you'll still miss much.

For example, out of curiosity, we just happened to look down a close that was half hidden by table and chair in from of a eatery.

As we go down the street, serenaded by a group of perhaps ten young men, traveling together and feeling no pain in a tavern we spot a shop across the street. Actually they were quite amusing as they waved me over to join the singing. Not knowing the song, nor the borough, I applauded and declined.

After getting back to our car, we hunted for a place for dinner. Our guidebook listed one of the best places for pub food

So we drive in circles, even with the GPS, to find this pub. We were going the wrong way on the street (meaning opposite way, I WAS on the right side as required) so we U turned and parked. Directly across the street was an old stone building. On the second floor there was a cat looking out the window, sitting straight up with its tail curled around its feet. I thought it a plush toy. I walked closer and closer and finally saw it was breathing.

I ran across the street for my camera and, of course, it had moved from that perfect pose. None-the-less, I think I got a couple cute pictures, AND found an other "accidental" historic site.

Oh, we did find the damn pub - with a sign, "We've reopened under new management". We went in to discover this was their second day of business after the first owner left, 6 months ago. Had no food. We left for Stirling.